Happy In Bag

Friday, December 23, 2005

Thin and Crispy

I realize it’s a bold admission to make in Kansas City, but I’ve lost my taste for Winstead’s. The relatively recent introduction of Midwestern hamburger chain Culver’s to the area is a good test of the rest of Kansas City’s loyalty to Winstead’s. Both serve the same thin, crispy burgers, along with shakes and malts. As the newcomer, Culver’s is shinier and brighter than the competition, and its staff is remarkably cheerful. Conversely, aside from a couple of old pros at the Plaza location, a sullen teen spirit pervades Winstead’s. There's a price premium at Culver’s, and ceiling fans in the dining room create an unwelcome, mildy disorienting, strobe effect. I guess that’s the penalty for forsaking the home town grease emporium.

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