Chang of Fools

My waiter was chewing gum.

That's obnoxious even at a greasy spoon. At P.F. Chang's on the Plaza, where it's hard to get through lunch for under $12 a person, it's unacceptable.

When I first ate at the upscale chain several years ago, I was impressed by the quality of the food and by the sleek presentation. Earlier this week, I returned to the restaurant for first time in at least five years.

The food was fine and the atmosphere was pleasant. But I wasn't knocked out. The quandary is that my expectations have since been raised. After P.F. Chang's successfully swept the nation, other Chinese restaurants quickly adapted by improving their menus. Additionally, Asian produce became readily available at grocery stores. (I'm making sesame beef for dinner tonight.)

P.F. Chang's seems to be a victim of its own success. Now, about that gum...