Food is better now. Produce is fresher and the selection is more varied. Meat and potatoes once ruled a region in which even Italian fare was considered marginally exotic. And before chain restaurants dominated the landscape, mom-and-pop operators were the norm. A few vestiges of the old days remain. Villa Capri on Metcalf is one such holdout. It's exactly the type of place my family would have frequented on occasion when I was a kid. These observations aren't meant to slight the adamantly old-school Villa Capri. It holds plenty of charm and character- qualities often absent in these modern times.